Myanmar Mesmerises

NSTPress

Potholes, hairpin bends and dirt tracks can’t stopAndrew Drummond Law from completing a gruelling road trip

I SPENT a month in Myanmar, exploring its stunning yet still relatively unknown attractions, from Yangon’s magnificent Shwedagon Pagoda complex to the impossibly balanced Golden Rock at Kyaikhtiyo and trekking in the green mountain ranges of Shan State to boating around Inle Lake and exploring Bagan’s expansive temple complex on a mountain-bike.

Travelling independently means only seeing what I want to see, and moving on when it suits me. Unlike an organised tour.

But the road journeys between the destinations were just as interesting as I watched locals go about their daily business.

Fishing, farming, making cheroot cigars and weaving of fine textiles for clothing — all experienced up close and personal.

Being invited to share a bowl of mohinga, the tasty local rice noodle fish soup or smoking handmade cheroot cigars with complete strangers were some of the simple yet welcomed moments of my trip.

I had wanted to visit the country for years, but had been warned not to, because of the political situation.

I could see the country was changing slowly, opening up to outsiders, as it emerged from decades of isolation.

So I finally booked my ticket to explore mysterious Myanmar in late October, so as to avoid the scorching heat and heavy rains.

GETTING THE BEARINGS

For the first three days, I move around on foot, getting my bearings and working out how I will find reliable transport for my adventure.

Originally I had planned to ride on buses. But after a few short local journeys in seats so small and cramped that the blood stops flowing in my legs, and their very slow speed, I decide to re-think my options.

I ask the hotel front desk employees if they know any trustworthy driver with a reliable vehicle that is sturdy enough to take a beating on the treacherous post-monsoon season damaged roads.

The driver will also be my fixer along the way, booking guesthouse accommodation, my interpreter and travel guide as well as drive me around safely.

This will certainly be more expensive than taking a bus, but as this is a trip of a lifetime, I want to tailor it to my needs. By the third day, I have met with a handful of drivers and literally kicked the tyres of their vehicles, as they say and finally,I meet one who impresses me the most.

Immaculately dressed in a mandarin collared long-sleeved shirt and chequered longyi (like a sarong), he is the consummate professional. His clothing characterises the influences of neighbouring China and India on Myanmar, the land in-between.

He shows me a book filled with handwritten recommendations from customers who have used his car service. Good. Written proof that I am not the only crazy one to go on a road-trip.

He drives me around Yangon in the morning rush-hour, passing by Sule Pagoda, the main traffic circle where a 46m-tall golden temple has stood for 2,000 years. It is surrounded by old government buildings, whose architecture betrays the country’s past British colonial rule. There are bookstalls, eyeglass shops and souvenir stalls everywhere.

I’m testing his driving skills and safety awareness. He proves to be a patient, considerate and safe driver. The job is his. For a daily rate, he will deal with the logistics and transport while I focus on exploring Myanmar’s treasures and pleasures.

The long-distance taxi driver has invested heavily in strengthening his car’s axles and suspension system, and uses a set of tougher than normal tyres.

Without these extras, his vehicle will take a beating along the old road system, and end up in the workshop, meaning he won’t be able to earn a living.

Throughout the trip, he insists on taking his car into workshops for wheel realignment and brake system checks at regular intervals. He knows the score. Good. I’m in safe hands.

NATIONAL TREASURES

That evening I visit the famous Shwedagon Pagoda or Golden Pagoda. I make a small “donation” and a couple of young girls look after my trusty boots at the entrance although it is unlikely anyone would want to steal my clown-sized footwear.

At sunset, the 99m-high, gilded bell-shaped stupa comes alive, glowing and turning a rich, warm orange colour, thanks to it being covered in real gold plates.

The original stupa was built thousands of years ago and has been rebuilt many times following several earthquakes. Its current form is thought to date from the late 18th Century.

“Which day of the week were you born?” asks a woman out of the blue. That day of the week determines the planetary post and animal that I should pray at, she explains.

Each post has an image of Buddha and a different animal. Devotees offer flowers, pour water onto the statues, pray and make a wish. The woman shows me around the complex.

Regardless of one’s beliefs, Shwedagon is the most sacred and enchanting place in the country that must be visited by all to make merit for the next life, she says.

A short walk away is Chaukhtatgyi Paya, a huge reclining statue of Buddha that is 60m long and 30m high, housed in a massive metal shed.

Despite its impressive size, I remember its peaceful and serene face the most. Look at the soles of the feet and you’ll see gold inscriptions describing the many lives of Buddha. My first three days are off to a great start.

HIGHLIGHTS AND DELIGHTS

We set off early the next morning with a large pallet of bottled water in the trunk, two spare tyres and my backpack. Whenever possible, we drive with the air-conditioner off and windows down so as to save on the precious and very expensive fuel.

Of course, the dusty conditions mean we are caked in a fine layer of dust when we reach our first destination in Mon State, 210km from Yangon.

Luckily my shemagh and wraparound sunglasses block out most of the dust, with my camera tucked away safely in-between taking shots.

After an overnight stay, we arrive at Kinpun Village at the base of Mount Kyaiktiyo. From here it is a short truck-ride and then a very steep and tiring 11km trek up through jungle and muddy trails to Kyaiktiyo Pagoda.

It stands on top of an eight-metre tall boulder, called Golden Rock. The huge granite rock is covered in gold leaf, pasted on by Buddhist devotees making pilgrimages.

According to my driver, the gravity-defying Golden Rock balances precariously on a single strand of Buddha’s hair, preventing it from rolling off.

From every angle you look at the rock, it appears to be about to roll off the mountain. It’s a challenging trek, but what a view to begin my day with.

Our next stop is Kalaw in Shan State with an en route overnight stay in Taungoo.

Hairpin bends and the number of overturned trucks and crashed cars we pass gives one an idea of the challenges of driving in this part of mountainous State.

The former colonial hill station is cooler, thanks to its 1,300m elevation, and has some of the most interesting trekking I’ve ever done. The guesthouse can help make arrangements with the local guides.

You can do overnighters, staying in a longhouse with different local tribes. But I chose to do daily treks of 15-25km, with a hot shower and meal at the end of each day, back in the guesthouse.

This means carrying less on my back during the day, making the treks more of a fun exploration, rather than a daily physical challenge.

Interestingly the guesthouse is run by a Nepalese couple, whose family used to serve in the British military during colonial times.

TREKKING IN SHAN STATE

Beautiful mountain scenery of pine forests and bamboo groves, combined with fascinating stop-offs in villages full of brightly clothed villagers going about their everyday lives best describe my five days of trekking.

Have a tasty home cooked meal in a village longhouse and buy some handicraft items in return. It seems like a fair exchange and a good way to see how locals live.

The morning begins chilly and misty, but by midday it is roasting hot, and wearing my sarong for trekking seems to be the best way to stay cool and comfortable.

We trek through tea and coffee plantations. Slash and burn farming methods are still being used.

Tea is a very popular cash crop and it also helps to prevent soil erosion, very important when growing crops on such hilly and exposed terrain. Decades ago, this was a prime location for growing opium poppy.

We meet mainly Palaung tribe people living in the villages and working the land. In one longhouse, they are drying tobacco leaves to roll into cheroots, small cigars that, despite their sharp acrid smell, are quite mild tasting.

In another longhouse, a family celebration in going on, attended by all the women and children. The women wear brightly coloured headdresses made from different coloured strands wrapped around their heads, like turbans.

The bright red, yellow, green, orange, blue and pink strands perfectly complement their bright green, purple or blue jackets and sarongs.

Some of the elders wear silver or bamboo bands around their waists, said to ward off evil spirits.

We move to the next village. I’m trekking up a steep path when I hear a loud commotion coming from around the corner. Two blurs of red pass by me at high speed.

All I can hear is boys laughing away, as I pick myself up from the ground, brushing off the dust. Go-karting novice monks! Two go-karts racing one another have narrowly missed me. I always carry sweets in my backpack for occasions like this and within a few minutes, I am invited to race with them.

I’m too heavy to sit on their wooden go-karts but I can still try and outrun them. What fun!

On the way back to the guesthouse we meet some Pa-o women, walking home from the market. Their dress is less colourful and more conservative, consisting of black and dark indigo loose-fitting blouses and trousers or sarongs. Their headdresses, however, are often made from very bright chequered orange cloth.

Like many women and children in Myanmar, they are wearing thanaka on their faces. The whitish-yellow paste is made from tree bark. It acts like a sunblock but is also applied in patterns on the face. A circular patch on each cheek and a stripe on the nose seem to be the most fashionable marking.

Inle Lake, my next stop, is 50km away from Kalaw. But I chose not to do the three-day, two-night trek.

For those who want to, it is possible to arrange for your heavier luggage sent ahead by road, so that you only carry the necessary trekking gear on your back.

After five days enjoying the cool hill station’s evening breezes, Nepali food and exploring the neighbouring villages, it is time to move on.

If I had thought the hairpin bends going uphill were dangerous, going downhill is giving me a few more grey hair and I am wishing I had trekked on to Inle Lake instead.

FAST FACTS

When To Go

Yangon is coolest between November and February. December and January are mostly dry and sunny. Temperatures rise in March and April, and in May it can become hot and sticky. August and September are the hottest months of the year.

How To Get There

Direct flights with Malaysia Airlines and AirAsia are about RM500, depending on the advance booking period and the time of year. Flight time is only 2.5 hours.

Where To Stay

Check www.asiarooms.com and www.agoda.com for all budgets.

Must-Brings

Mint condition US dollar notes. If they are marked, folded or dirty they risk being rejected by local vendors and hotels. Do not assume credit cards will be accepted or that the ATM will work.

Boiled sweets, pencils and small drawing books are ideal gifts for children you meet along the way, especially in the villages of Shan State.

Paracetamol is a sought-after medicine, given its high price locally. But if you do share your medical supplies while trekking, please ensure the recipient is made aware of the safe dosage level.

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